Saturday, July 9, 2011

I have surfed Hawaii

I'm going to Hawaii. I'm taking surfing lessons. That is really all I knew. I mean, if you are in Hawaii, don't you surf?

Life lesson Number One: Different Hawaiian islands are known for different things. For example, I am living in the "coffee region". Good thing - not sure I should be living in the surfing region of Hawaii.

Ezra. My surfing instructor. Found him on Craigslist - and really, that is another whole different story. I should be the poster child for good stories from Craigslist.

There were three of us this morning. Little half hour instruction on the rocks (there are not really beaches here). Then out we go.

Really still no idea what I am doing. There were tons of people out there. Good instruction and felt very safe. Instead of staying with all the beginners - it was too crowded, we go hang out with the locals. Mistake #1.

First you paddle - then you "pop up on the board". Sure thing. Ezra explains, "you stand up every day. You can do this"

Ezra has been living here his entire life and he doesn't remember learning how to surf. He just always has known how to surf. I get it, my kids don't remember they didn't know how to ski.

I'm on the board, I'm facing the shoreline. Ezra yells, "Leasa, start paddling" I do, the wave comes. I'm on my knees, I'm on my feet and I ride it in. I've been doing it my whole life. My god, was it incredible. First wave. Awesome.

Paddle back out - hang out - others go. Second wave, start paddling, I'm up, I'm down, and the third wave made sure I was down.

WHAPPPP - I kissed a rock. It kissed me back. Road rash. Except would this be called - Coral rash???? I'm underwater. I can see the sunlight, I pop right up. I start paddling back out.

Ezra - "are you okay" I'm fine, let's go back out. "really, we should clean that out" Clean what out??

Then I realize, I’m bleeding. Not gushing blood, just bleeding.

Me to Ezra, you go back out with the others, I’ll go to the lifeguard stand.

I pass two other surf instructors on my way to the beach. “Are you okay”. Okay, I guess I look worse than I feel. My face is rather swollen on the right side – and bleeding.

By the time I’m half way in, the life guard is on a board next to me, paddling along side. We make it to the beach and he grabs his first aid kit. (My second ocean rescue in three days – if my fishing boat goes down on Monday, I’m done with the ocean!) He’s cleaning up my face and asking me general questions. What’s your name, where are you from, etc. I then realize he’s making sure I don’t have a concussion and thinking clearly. I told him, I don’t ever think clearly. THEN he puts the “cherry on top of my day”. How old are you? Forty–two. His face was priceless. You’re 42?? I am – you look GREAT and you are out here taking surfing lessons. YES I AM.

Thanks for making my day, thanks for cleaning me up – and I’m going back out. I was told to sit down!  I could surf some more another day.

And actually, the scratch isn’t too bad – no stitches needed (darn it, I was hoping insurance would cover the plastic surgery!) Now have a black eye.

I can now say, “I’ve surfed Hawaii and a 10 foot wave, took me down.” Wonder what the waves will be like tomorrow???

1 comment:

  1. Guess, I missed the "first ocean rescue." Whatever it was, so thankful. Glad you are okay with the second one! Thankful for the "guys" on the beach taking care of you. Mom concerned comments over.

    Sounds like you are having a great time. Continue to enjoy and experience each moment to the fullest. Thanks for sharing your activities and happenings. You are the poster person of giving life what it gives you! A ride you would